The world of fragrance is a fickle mistress. Beloved scents, cherished for generations, can undergo reformulations that leave aficionados heartbroken and questioning the very essence of their olfactory memories. This is precisely the predicament facing many Hermès Equipage enthusiasts following the introduction of a new formula. Having recently acquired a brand new, unopened 100ml bottle of Hermès Equipage Eau de Toilette (EDT) via eBay, following the pleasurable experience of a decant from Perfumed Court, I've embarked on a comparative journey, uncovering the significant differences between the old and the new, and exploring the implications for this iconic fragrance. My findings reveal a stark contrast, a story of simplification and a loss of complexity that raises crucial questions about the future of classic perfumery.
Hermès Equipage, a cornerstone in the Hermès fragrance portfolio, has long been lauded as a sophisticated and refined chypre fougère. Its rich tapestry of notes, woven together with masterful precision, created a distinctly masculine scent that transcended fleeting trends. The fragrance, launched in 1970, immediately established itself as a timeless classic, a testament to the enduring appeal of carefully crafted olfactory compositions. Its reputation rests on a complex interplay of ingredients, creating a unique character that many have described as both powerful and elegant, rugged yet refined. It’s a scent that evokes images of equestrian pursuits, of leather saddles and crisp morning air, perfectly reflecting the Hermès brand's heritage.
The original Equipage, as experienced through the decant from Perfumed Court, exhibited a captivating evolution throughout its wear. It wasn't a linear fragrance; rather, it unfolded like a carefully orchestrated narrative, each act revealing new facets of its personality. The opening burst was a vibrant explosion of citrus, sharp and invigorating, followed by a heart of rich, earthy geranium, a note that truly anchored the fragrance's character. This geranium, often cited as the heart and soul of Equipage, wasn't a simple, sweet geranium; it possessed a distinct herbal facet, almost bordering on a slightly green, almost peppery nuance. This was complemented by a subtle, almost smoky undercurrent, possibly from oakmoss, a note often associated with classic chypre fragrances. The dry-down, however, was where the magic truly unfolded. A warm, leathery base, enriched by sandalwood and patchouli, provided a comforting and enduring foundation, creating a lasting impression that lingered on the skin for hours. This was a fragrance with depth, with layers, a fragrance that rewarded patient exploration.
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